Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 2:41 pm Post subject: Engine swap
Im tired of waiting for the local garage to change my old engine with blown headgaskets with a new one. Always falling behind in the priority.
So i have now desigted to doo it myself. I have a place to stay with a "elephant hoist" and all basic tools.
Im wondering:
Is it possible to hoist the engine up (is there room for that) or is the easyest thing to let the engine go to the flor on a jack? Its a Syncro with sliding bars underneeth.
Im considering not reusing the shortened oil sump because i dont like the thought of unning an engine with less oil than the fabricator designed it for (less cooling etc). I do not go offroad with my syncro, but i sometimes use it on bad roads. Will i get a groundclerance problem with my syncro and a standard oilpan?
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:01 pm Post subject:
Hi Steffen
I think you have more room in a T3 engine bay than a T2B don't you?
I did mine (T2B) without taking the engine out. Removed exhaust system, inlet manifold etc & engine support bar.
I found I couldn't remove two bolts from the head, then remove the head. I had to loosen then & remove them with the head.
Is it an EJ20? If so there are two different styles of head gasket for it......
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=848 _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Im changing the whole engine as te hol one has blown at least three headgaskets in its lifetime...it has also runned for some time without a stat because it was overheating..so i think its ready for a change.
Well anyway..got some tips from the norwegian forum and they say down with the engine.. _________________ Subsyncro =)
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject:
Bugger, misread your post!
I know Rich Jones gets his van onto ramps at the rear. He then puts a "Black & Decker" "Workmate" over the hatch with a pulley system.
Lower the engine onto the floor.
Brent's excellent pages:
http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/
(go to "Engine II" & "Bolt up") _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Joined: 30 Jan 2006 Posts: 652 Location: North Staffordshire
Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 5:53 pm Post subject:
Elusive is right (he usually is!). If you jack the back end up and put it on axle stands or ramps (I guess you can not drive up?), then put some kind of frame / trestle / portable bench over the engine hatch hole, you can easily lower the engine to the floor using a chain hoist ("block and tackle" if you know them as that in Norway?) or a lever hoist.
You need to be sure the trestle or bench is strong enough though. I use a Black and Decker Workmate bench, but do not support the engine right on the wooden top. I put a steel tube about 30mm diameter between the metal bench ends, and hang my lever hoist from that.
You can use an engine crane to lower the engine down to the floor, as long as it is tall enough to reach over the back of the bodywork to the hatch when the back of the VW is jacked up high enough to slide the engine out. I have never heard of anyone lifting the engine out through the hatch. It's certainly not how VW intended you to get it out, but it may be possible!
I usually lower the engine on to a sheet of hardboard. Once it is on the ground the smooth surface of the hardboard makes it very easy to slide the engine in / out from underneath. With a standard sump Subaru engines can not be rolled out on a trolley jack very easily because they want to tip over. You can do it that way if you can jack the back of the VW high enough to fit the jack under the engine, and have someone else to hold the engine upright on the jack, but I find the sheet of hardboard method easiest when working alone. _________________ Regards,
Richard,
R J Engineered Solutions
Quality Subaru Powered VW Components
www.rjes.com
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 11:51 pm Post subject:
Hey Rich - ta for the comment
Can you post the photos of your workmate setup - KS's posts have now gone for some reason.
Lovely, cheap setup that works, and most people on here have the stuff kicking around. _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Got the old engine out yesterday. It went pretty well! Just had to loosen four bolts to get the engin seperated from the transmission! and all of them where easy to get to! (thats a new one)
Anyway, im changing over the timing belt and the tentionpullys etc from the old engine to the new one as the old just had these parts changed. I will also change some oil seals at the same time (cams, Oilpump and crank)
I am wondering, the Hayenez subaru "bible" explains how to get syl no1 in TDC using a compression gauge. I do not have one of these and wondered if i could just unscrew the sparkplugs, put my finger down the hole on syl NO1 and then manualy turn the engine until i feel the pressure build up and then line the marks on the cam drive wheels and the crankshft drive wheel?
thankfull for any tips! _________________ Subsyncro =)
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:09 pm Post subject:
The cam pulleys are marked for TDC settings (I'm assuming yours is an EJ20 SOHC)
Look on the right hand cam pulley, there's an arrow.
When it points at:
12 o'clock #1 TDC
3 o'clock #3 TDC
6 o'clock #2 TDC
9 o'clock #4 TDC
If you have manual valves the clearances are
Intake 0.2mm ± 0.02
Exhaust 0.25 ± 0.02
When you put the new belt on there's markings on the cam and crank pulleys, these all must point straight up (12 o'clock) _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Think i got it right then.
Did as i described. Put my thumb finger in the sparkplughole and turned the engine until i felt pressure building up. Right when the pressure released the three marks on crank and camshafts was 12 o clock.
The engine is by the way a 2,2 EJ 94 model.
Im well on the way. The old engine is stripped for what i need of parts. All oilseals on the new rengine has been changed. Tomorrow the plan is to get done with the oilsump, attach the flywheel and chlutch. Perhaps start with the inlet manifoil as well
Now for a new question.
What kind of tool do you use to senter the chlutch? As far as i can see this is a 210mm Preformance chlutc from a Vw beetle. _________________ Subsyncro =)
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:03 pm Post subject:
I just used a standard bug/bus clutch tool to align it. _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Here is a link tot he norwegian vwbus forum. Im in the midle of the work. Its a ot of small modifications that must be done..
Can anyone tell me jut what kind of ingine mounting i have got? I think i have to cut quite a bit in the rear crossbar to fit the seperate thermostate housing! Most likly im going to need to Strengthen the bar afterwords by adding some steel under and behind the cut? _________________ Subsyncro =)
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