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Superleggo Jedi Master

Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 359 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:46 pm Post subject: What is the best order to repanel a bay. |
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Hi I an just about to set about replacing most of the outer skins on my Bay. Has anyone got a recomended order so you end up with good panel gaps.
I was thinking of doing the door skins first then the front steps and nose panels and working backwards.
Any thoughts you must have all done it unless you imported your bay. _________________ VW Camper 1971
VW Passat 2006
Lotus Elan +2 Convertible 1967
Lotus Elan +2 1968
Mini Moke 1974
Land Rover Series 2a 1967
DB5 replica Work in progress
Another day another car! |
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ElusiveStranger Darth Admin


Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:54 am Post subject: |
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I'm going front to back, but very slowly
You can't do a wheel arch if the b-post's gone, you also need the b-post for sills. For easy removal just get a BMW to hit it in that area
Then I have to build a garage (standing joke!) and rip the roof off the van *shivers* _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young" |
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richbaker78 Teacher of Padawans


Joined: 31 Jan 2006 Posts: 1298
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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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beware that most patern arches a the front are a shocking fit. Many people now opt to use cuts from a rust free van and to be honest i would do the same if I was starting again.
The arches I had were about an inch too tall and an inch to short - i ended up cutting them ino sections and filling in the gaps with steel inserts to get a reasonable gap. On top of that the pattern doors I used were also sh*t but sounds like you wont have that prob. as you are reskinning I would defo do as you say - get doors sorted and then make everything else fit around it.
I would start with front panel, a post, then doors then b post/seatbelt repairs then arches then sills and the rest will follow.
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Superleggo Jedi Master

Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 359 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks folks I am glad to hear it was not a silly question. I thought it looked like as much fabrication as it did offering up new panels. I have got a spare new lower front panel for a late bay if any one wants it as I bought the wrong one in error.
I have just blasted all my new panels lightly and coated them with Zinga. Has any used this product. It seem great to me like cold galvanising and easy to coat. It is suposed to give 30years protection. I will let you know if it lives up to its claim in 30years time! _________________ VW Camper 1971
VW Passat 2006
Lotus Elan +2 Convertible 1967
Lotus Elan +2 1968
Mini Moke 1974
Land Rover Series 2a 1967
DB5 replica Work in progress
Another day another car! |
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chuggaboom Jedi Master

Joined: 26 Nov 2006 Posts: 253 Location: Leicester
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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| i have used zinga seems ok but scratches easily best to coat it again with some under coat to protect it but if it does as it says it should be great if a little expensive |
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Superleggo Jedi Master

Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 359 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:26 am Post subject: coating |
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hi - I would agree that zinga needs another coat to be sure, I have not tried to spray it yet but I am impressd by the results with a roller.
The instructions for Land Rover recommend another coat with a conventional paint system. But at least it will not rust again _________________ VW Camper 1971
VW Passat 2006
Lotus Elan +2 Convertible 1967
Lotus Elan +2 1968
Mini Moke 1974
Land Rover Series 2a 1967
DB5 replica Work in progress
Another day another car!
Last edited by Superleggo on Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:26 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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chuggaboom Jedi Master

Joined: 26 Nov 2006 Posts: 253 Location: Leicester
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:38 am Post subject: |
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| i think you need to use a product like barcoat in order to prevent reation with most paints |
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Superleggo Jedi Master

Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 359 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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chuggaboom
You are right I have spoken to the technical manager at Zinga today. it is designed to be soft so it does not chip off. You can overcoat with "K paint systems which are not great for health for us DIYers. You must must overcoat with celluose without a barrier layer as the solvent will attack the system. They recomment overcoating with Coo Var 'All Metal Primer' Then it can be overcoated with cellulose paint systems. Thiss not the easy to get hold of but I have ordered some off the net today. I wil let you know how I get on.
I agree it is not a cheap system but if it resists rust then it is worth the expense. _________________ VW Camper 1971
VW Passat 2006
Lotus Elan +2 Convertible 1967
Lotus Elan +2 1968
Mini Moke 1974
Land Rover Series 2a 1967
DB5 replica Work in progress
Another day another car! |
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