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Flip yer van on it's side

 
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ElusiveStranger
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Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 2527
Location: Mudway, Kent

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:40 am    Post subject: Flip yer van on it's side Reply with quote

Big up for "65 Delux" for sharing this with us.


The actual rollover is made up of 4 pieces
1 - the main base
2 - the uprights
3 - 2nd upright
4 - brace between uprights

The base is designed to be mounted under the bus on castors which allow total movement of a bus with no wheels or suspension

The uprights will then slide into the base and allow the bus to be positioned at 45 or 90 degrees

4 The brace just adds some stability

In this picture you can see the base in situation under the bus - this is made of 4 pieces of square tube - I used 60 x 60 x 5 mm ( a bit overkill )
2 pieces are the same width as the torsion bar tube at the back of the bus - It varies between bay and split etc . The 2 longer ones are the distance between the front beam mounts and the gearbox protection cradle at the back .





Once you have these 4 pieces they need to be welded so the short ones - Across the bus - have open ends - as below - this bit needs to be welded so it is flat



Once welded add 4 plates in the corners - this adds strength and gives a mounting point for each wheel when just mounted on the base alone - I used 8mm plate



Then measure the distance between the beam mounting positions on the chassis rail and work out where they go on the front cross beam - they must be centrally mounted ie an equal distance front the centre of that front rail - Then make a template out of card and copy it in steel - 8mm plate again - offer this up in position and tack in place - It helps to have the bus raised and the main frame under it -


The same is done at the back - a template and then coppied in 8 mm plate - If you got the measurement right between the spring plate mounts these rear mounts should just need welding in place - If not a washer or two in between the rail and the plate will do the job before you weld .



Once tacked in and you are sure its in the right place you can remove from under bus and weld up properly - I used offcuts of box section to add strength






Right thats the base made - You now need the uprights - These are basically the same ( as each other - not the base )


I will try to get more info and pictures / designs of the uprights on here soon - I dont have any good pictures of uprights and have tried to write them out a few times but its too confusing when written down with no illustration .

Any way 1st installment done for you . Hope it helps
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Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
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'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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Superleggo
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Joined: 12 Nov 2009
Posts: 359
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:02 pm    Post subject: Bay body roller Reply with quote

Hi hear are a few more pictures with dimensions of how I roller my Bay over to weld up the underside and shot blast it. I hope it helps other but please do not attempt this if you are not a good welder also you follow this entirely at your own risk.

Having said that now that I have got the balance point right for a camper I can now roll it over in the time it takes to walk round the van. whilst one picture show it supported by a folk lift this was soley for ease of angle adjustment while i was shot blasting it. I can list it with one hand.








The balance point for the front support is 200mm above the bumper iron mounts and 150mm at the rear off the chassis plates. I will try and add some better pictures at the weekend if that helps. These pivot points leave the van top heavy which means that it is happy resting on it roof gutters while it is on its side and will not suddernly right its self while you are working on the van.

The main frame is built out of 100 x 50mm box section. this is a bit over the top and 80mm x 40mmwould be ok. The jacking system uses a 20mm threaded bar which works fine but needs a bit of effort to jack up and as a result is a bit slow. If I was using it more regularly then I would install 2 log splitter 8 ton hydraulic jacks which can be sourced for about 60. thn it could be lifted in seconds

the tubes are 50mm thick wall tube and the next size up. I did weld on a flange to allow it to be locked off in any position but it is easier to bust prop it up on old tyres axle stands etc rather than try and lock it offwhilst holding it in position.

All I can say is that once you have used one of these you will not look back. I hate welding upside down lying on my back. The quality of my welding is far better standing up.

hope this helps.
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VW Camper 1971
VW Passat 2006
Lotus Elan +2 Convertible 1967
Lotus Elan +2 1968
Mini Moke 1974
Land Rover Series 2a 1967
DB5 replica Work in progress

Another day another car!
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