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Wasserboxer repair or replace?

 
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T25alfa
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:03 am    Post subject: Wasserboxer repair or replace? Reply with quote

Hi folks, I've just bought a decent T25 1.9 water cooled camper. The previous owner had a Verge engine replacement about 7 years ago but has suffered head gasket failure. He rebuilt it (including a welded head) and it leaked immediately whilst turning over from the head gasket and had oil contamination. He is a decent enough DIY mechanic but obviously has done something wrong. I don't know didly about these engines but assume.

Is it worth rebuilding again or should I ditch it for something else. I like my 16v Alfa conversion but this would mean splitting it down and getting another conversion kit machined. The Alfa still only does 25 mpg max but is a fantastic engine.

What do you guys think is the quickest and cheapest upgrade. I don't have a lot of dosh right now but can weld and wield a spanner.

Thanks, Tony.
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ElusiveStranger
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:59 am    Post subject: Re: Wasserboxer repair or replace? Reply with quote

T25alfa wrote:
What do you guys think is the quickest and cheapest upgrade. I don't have a lot of dosh right now but can weld and wield a spanner.


Quickest = replacement engine. Ask/look on VZi, maybe PM Ian Ambrose (Ambrosia)
Cheapest = tear yours down and have a look. They're simple enough
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buy a rottern scrap diesel t25 panel and bang that engine in 30+mpg and whole conversion for the price of a scrap van?
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

strip it down ,might be piston liner/bottom seals good luck.
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T25alfa
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:26 pm    Post subject: Wasserboxer repair or replace? Reply with quote

Thanks for your replies guys.

I ment to say I assumed that the cylinder liner hadn't sealed properly as the previous owner said something about a time limit on the sealant. I've got some holiday coming so I think I'll strip it down and have a look.

I quite like the idea of the diesel as I'm currently running a golf on waste veg oil but I can't break another motor as space is limited.

Thanks again,

Tony.
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T25alfa
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:35 pm    Post subject: WBX Head off Reply with quote

Ok so finally got round to taking the head off today. I did it with engine in situ. The head looks in good condition but several studs are quite rusty. I left the liners in place, they have a little bit of movement, is this normal and do they have a gasket or sealant applied at the bottom. I know about the black and green rings.

Do I need to remove the liners and reseal?

I would appreciate any advice as this is not like any water cooled I've worked on.

cheers,

Tony.
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AMBROSIA
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to remove the liners if you suspect the engine has issues with leaks etc. You can leave them provided they have completely stayed put when removing the head.
One thing to note is that getting the gudeon pins out of the pistons is a bitch as you need to pull them out.
It critical that the head surface is smooth with no pitting and the combustion chambers where the sealing rings is again smooth.
Also any damage to the edges of the combustion chambers will lead to water leaks and potential steam build up in the cooling system.
You MUST use the correct gasket kit (Elring) which you can buy from The Engine Shop or GSF but make sure it's the brand Elring.
It goes without saying that heads, liners and the case must be fully cleaned with no traces of oil or dirt.
To put things back together:

Run a small bead of the special head gasket sealant around the base of the liner prior to fitting the black o ring over the top.
Place the green o ring dry on the top of the liner.
Fit all the liners in place.
Run a small bead of sealant inside the gasket where it fits over the water jacket.
Run a small bead of sealant on the head facing side of the gasket (small being 5mm width).
Dont forget the sealing rings when putting the heads back on.
Put some sealant on the head bolts prior to fitting.
The pushrod seals are fitted dry.
Remember, only use a small bead of sealant as any excess has a habit of floating around your engine blocking oil galleries and the oil pickup filter.

I don't recall the torque settings but if you search you will find them.

Hope this helps,

Iain.
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T25alfa
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:37 pm    Post subject: wasserboxer Reply with quote

Hi Iain,

Thanks very much for your advice.

I think I've found the problem. The previous owner rebuilt the head with two sealing rings inserted in the head so obviously the head gaskett didn't fully compress, hence the large leak. I've elected to rebuild using the old gasketts (the engine hasn't been run) I've given it a bit of a clean up and then a compression test before adding the water. There was no compression in one of the cylinders on the other bank of cylinders. Which I assume was down to the hydraulic tappets not yet functioning. That's as far as I've got. thanks again.

All the best,

Tony.
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AMBROSIA
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hydraulic tappets wont affect compression as when they bleed down it's the valves that then won't open fully as opposed to close fully.
I would suggest you need to strip that side also as there is clearly something wrong.
You can reuse the gaskets if you must but you still need to use the correct sealant or all your hard work will be for nothing.
Personally I would take all the liners out and check everything judging by what you have found already!
When it's all back together use the VW G12 coolant mixed with distilled water and you will have no corrosion worries for years to come Wink
Hope it all goes well.

Iain.
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