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Bay Gearbox
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sburford
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:32 am    Post subject: Bay Gearbox Reply with quote

Hi peeps,

I've finally had 6months of using my bus after ages of it in bits. which has been great, and has helped build a list of alterations to do, but i think my gearbox is now toast. Sad
It is very noisy all the time (used to stop when the clutch was depressed but now its all the time) gets louder at speed, keeps popping out of 4th and i did have some trouble finding any gear at all driving around Canterbury ring road in traffic resulting in a lot of crunching and a bit of wheel spinning...

so i need to sort it now, and found it revved to high at speed anyhow. its a 68 bay so the box i have i "think" is a CA, didnt manage much more than 65 anyhow and i heard that early bays have a much lower ratio to later ones.

What are my options. im on a tight budget so a 2l 6rib box are too much money i reckon. get my box rebuilt by bears? anyone done this ideas of cost? i have seen some posts about using a t25 dk box and cable change, but i didnt get how it all would work. is this a big job? DIY rebuild is out i assume...

also i have found that after a bit of a drive my steering gets very vague, almost scary vague actually. I am going to change the steering box oil as i think it may be breaking down under heat and i also read somewhere about how to adjust the steering box to remove any play but cant find the guide. anyone here got a link for it.

cheers,



shaun.
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easy-does-it
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Location: cambridgeshire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was in the same position dude , the gear ratio was pants and i was in need of a better box, couldnt stretch to a cp 091 and ended up getting a dk..
Got it all mated up and found the gear selector was level and a bit too close to the tortion tube to be able to change gear spent quite a bit of time scratching my head over it and decided i wouldnt be able to get it to work ( not saying it's not possible, i just couldnt fathom it out)..( later found out the selector fork for third and fourth was toast, so i would never have got it to work)

I went searching for a cp and at the time the only one i could find was going for 600 notes Eeeek .. so i bit the bullet and for just a bit more bears is changing mine to a cp nose change and new bearings and syncros ( although im also getting third and fourth changed for longer ratios ...well if it's going to be apart might as well go the whole hog.. allthough ££££ )...
Im in the dog house with the missus and surviving on beans on toast for the next millenium...


I know you cant change the ratio's in the later five speed t25 box's but if you get one cheap enough it might be worth a look, plus the selector is higher ...
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sburford
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm bears sounds more than i thought. the website sows rebuild price about 250.

t25 box option seems tricky to me, maybe a bit too advanced for me unless someone has a working one to check out / made a how to about it...

doesnt seem many options really...
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Alex (FTS)
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting an 091 box will be your cheepest option and £600 doesn't sound too bad for one-I've seen em go for £850!!

Or of course you could pick up a cheap 1600 gearbox and put bigger back tyres on-this would make all your gears a little taller. I ran a 1600 gearbox with 250/70 15 tyres on and that was ok. I then changed to a 091 box, but I bought a broken one for £100 and got it rebuilt at cogbox which was £600 so still loads of money!
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sburford
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that seems the only affordable route now then. a new 1600 box and bigger tyres. any pref. on the 1600 code i should get. i know they all have slightly different ratios, which ones are the best to get for lower revs at cruising? as for tyres do yo have any good places to get from cheaply? gonna need a new clutch as well as this and a few extra bits whilst the lump is out of the van, so on a tight budget, as usual... Happy
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easy-does-it
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sburford wrote:
hmm bears sounds more than i thought. the website sows rebuild price about 250. .


yeah the rebuild price is.... but then you have to add labour and the price of anything else it might need..

My gearbox is now double the price that i bought the van for Laugh Out Loud
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sburford
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well after another good look this is not a cheap fix. rebuild costs are high. Does anyone on here have a good condition 3rib box spare (maybe after a 2l upgrade) acting as a doorstop they want to part with? Happy

I have seen a few on ebay but not sure if anything off there will be any better condition than ive got? wanna get one and use it, not have to rebuild it. Also is it best getting one from a later bay so i can use a later clutch? people have mentioned it is an improvement, i am assuming it is lighter?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm, ive got my old box , 1600 out of a 76 bay, doesnt whine or knock out of gear.... but..... it needs a new ball joint for the hockey stick and the clutch operating shaft
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sburford
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are thy simple dig jobs? The clutch shaft replacing sounds a bit specialist.
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easy-does-it
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ball joint is the harder of the two, it's a little plastic ball about the size of a marble that goes inside the nose cone


not a 100% sure but you might be able to use your old clutch shaft ( depending on size)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-T1-T2-CLUTCH-OPERATING-SHAFT-/280625427178?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41569432ea
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sburford
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never taken a gearbox apart before. Does the nose cone just unbolt then? Then remove intermittent selector lever to change ball joint? Assume you don't touch the inner workings of the box. Clutch shaft is held on with just a circlip is that right? Don't need to open it for that?

Don't mind a challenge if it's cheaper, but don't want to end up with scrap. Happy
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easy-does-it
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep the nose cone just unbolts and you dont go near the inner workings... and yeah the clutch sahft is just held in place by a circlip..

£100
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