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urabuS.......it's in the works guys......finally
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It made it out to the driveway today under her own steam. I'm fighting an injector problem but it moves ! Seems real hot as per the gauge but could it be from it not being fully burped in the cooling system? It was over 210°F from just idling in the driveway with both fans on.




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richbaker78
Teacher of Padawans
Teacher of Padawans


Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Posts: 1298

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done ! Looks like a nice install. Be interested to see what your engine bay temps will be when up and running. How is your turbo cooling ? I would have thought it being so high could be an air locking issue there? Or have you fired a bleed to it?
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its about the same height as the header tank on the intake manifold and the turbo is cooled with just the standard hose in and out like factory.

No bleed attachment on it yet but might have to.
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys , I'm having a weird idling/running problem on #1 cylinder. When I pull the #1 injector wire off it makes no difference in the idle. I can do this on all other cylinders and you can feel/hear the change in idle. I've swapped injectors with #2 and it runs the same so this eliminates a faulty injector I think. I've done an ohms test to check for a broken wire from a31/B134 and there is no break. I also pulled the spark plug lead and grabbed a spare plug to run it on the engine and you can see the spark jumping the gap so I assume this is happening in the head also.

I also just swapped over the CTS just in case and this seems to not make a difference with the black smoke at idle and while blipping the throttle. I'm assuming it's running this rich due to my lack of change from #1......maybe just straight fuel going out the exhaust.

My wiring I've been using in my conversion is this one--> http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/link5.pdf

Any help to eliminate items or problems would be greatly appreciated :thumbs:

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I swapped the injector with #2 injector and had the same problem in that (#1) cylinder so it didn't follow the injector around to the #2 cylinder side.

I'll check the plug and report back.
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Pretty sure I've wired it up correctly. All the other 3 cylinders seem to work great.

So are #1(a31),#2(a32),#3(a25) and #4(a18) all earths to the ECU ? And then the bigger Yellow/Red wires are the power from main relay(#3) are coming from c8 and c9 all the way to each injector bank. All of them are linked together so it looks like they all get the 12v from there.

Can I swap around one of those earths and try to simulate the same problem to a different cylinder ? What I'm trying to ask I guess is , does another cylinder fire the fuel at the same time as #1 cylinder ? Kinda like a wasted spark system ? Not sure if the Subaru's are batch fired ?
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Well I found a ground not connected yet........a17. Anyone know what this ground is for internally in the ECU?

EDIT: looks like it's for the 'ignition system'. I'll report back to see if that helped
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Well that extra wired I missed was fixed -grounded- and no difference. I also just did a compression test on that cylinder and it read 180psi.
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I swapped spark plugs from #1 to #2 and no difference and then thought to swap injector wiring plug from #1 to #3 and the same problem now happens on #3 so It's got to be the wiring in that part of the loom. Only weird thing is that there seems to be no break in those wires from the ECU and to other assorted wiring traces....(audible ohms test).

I can hear the injector working when I stick a screwdriver to it....weird.
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Kai
Jedi Guardian
Jedi Guardian


Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 1213
Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you have continuity from the ecu plug all the way to the injector. Correct?

On the injector plug, you have +12v on the other injector pin?

So you should have +12v on one side of the plug and then the ecu is providing an earth on the other pin which will fire the injector. I don't know if you can test it at home but I would be inclined to test what is happening during cranking on the injector plug single earth. Should be pulsing.

I'm also inclined to suggest that perhaps a pin might be loose in the plug. When your connecting it its pushing the pin out and not making contact.

With my conversion, my injector plug was on but not making contact due to the plug not fitting home on the injector. I found out by pushing the plug into the injector the engine tone would change. Perhaps try pushing the wires into the plugs whilst the plug is on the injector.
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just found this while surfing........seems real close to what my problem is.Hmmmm ?

Quote:
Legacy And Impreza Engines With
No Injection Pulse #1 Cylinder
Built into the fuel injection control
unit is logic that will shut off the #1
injector if the computer believes that it
can no longer control the Idle Air Control
Valve. Remember this design characteristic
if you are trying to diagnose a “hard”
code for the Idle Air Control Valve or a
dead miss in the number one cylinder
due to no injection at idle. A problem in
the Idle Air Control Valve circuit may be
responsible. (Component testing shows
that it most likely is not the valve itself.)
Also, if the computer is deprived of its
“back up power supply,” some computers
will generate a false code for the Idle
Air Control Valve and kill the injector for cylinder #1. The pin location of this
power supply can be found in the Control
Unit Module I/0 Signal pages of the
appropriate Service Manual.

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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Latest vid after wiring up the IACV properly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO3r-OkzGtA
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dialarcs
Wannabe
Wannabe


Joined: 21 Jul 2016
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 9:42 am    Post subject: hunting Reply with quote

Hi, following this with keen interest, well done so far, looks very neat.

The hunting your getting is identical to what I used to get on a Mk1 escort that was running Sierra EFI setup, would go away if I simply unplugged the IAC valve, of course not a solution, but points to the IAC??
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2016 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually runs way better now after fixing the other 4 wires properly. After that vid I had only fixed 2 of the wires which I thought I had wired wrong.
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided to go stand alone ECU via Megasquirt after it not really driving very well. I think it was to do with the MAF piping being shorter and way different than the OEM style. I could never get the OBD2 to read either after multiple tries of every different configuration

Not a lot to report otherwise but I'm always working on something and lots of stuff behind the scenes etc. in prep for the MS.
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New intake done with hoses for the boost controller and the block (AOS.Air oil separator). No MAF (mass airflow sensor) on this grey pipe now.



Took the crossover manifold off and took the old coolant sensor out , drilled and tapped her for a 3/8" NPT for the new GM style sensor.



Ebay cheapy relays for fans(2),fuel pump and main relay.



Block off plate for the idle air valve. I could run one but decided not to.



And my 6yr old little helper blowing off the grinding dust after cutting off the spark plug lead holders, single coil pack mounts and ground bosses. I'm running CNP (coil near plug) now and the 4 coils are from a Chev LS2 engine.


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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got around to adding 1/2 a liter to my oil pan.Here are the few stages that took place.....

What it looked like originally



First cuts with and angle grinder and a Jig saw with a metal blade



New section bent up and tig'd



slid into the void





tack welded into place



chem dipped to bare metal



fully welded now



and powder coated





I've relocated my turbo drain to the oil filler instead of the oil pan.
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Jedi Knight
Jedi Knight


Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 131
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've also purchase a new rad. It's 19 x 27.5 x 3" double pass. I also added 3 x petcocks to help bleed the system.2 where the in/out's are and one on the top at the other end (middle).


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