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Moving away from a rear mouted rad.

 
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72_bay_simon
Padawan
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 79
Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:20 am    Post subject: Moving away from a rear mouted rad. Reply with quote

I am considering trying to relocate the rad underneath again. Its a pain not being able to get to the engine! My plan is to make a frame for the rad, use four of those flexable hoses from halfrauds then copper pipe to join it all up.

I think this will give my fans an easier time on the motorway as well.

I will use the TSR rad mounted flat and as close to the back of the area between the chasis rails as i can get it. A small scoop in front of this will force air into the space between the chassis rails and the only way for this to escape will be through the rad (downwards)

I will try and make a flow through header that goes from the output of the engine then on to the rad.

Whatever happens, it must surely get more airflow than it does in the back and it works OK there. So if I get the fans to stay off a bit more it will be an added bonus.

What do you think?

Cheers.
Simon.
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Alex (FTS)
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a good plan-it does seem to be a well tried and tested solution sticking it under the van. Keep us posted with pic's once you get started.
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chuggaboom
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

have a look on rjes website re cooling he has lots of intresting point on there including the use of copper pipe

and ducting

well worth a read
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72panelvan
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.rjes.com/html/material_choice.html thats pretty interesting. He does mention alloy though - can I assume that copper is o.k with iron blocks? he does state copper rad's were not used when aluminium engines were being used. I guess plastic is the safe bet. just not as asphetically pleasing as copper or stainless steel!
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ElusiveStranger
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Si,

Are your fans on all the time, or almost all the time? Every thing I read about rads in the back mentions "fans are on on freeways/motorways"

My answer - nope!

Go for it

Use anti-vibration mounts, fully box in the rad. To seal the airflow around mine (mounts/sheet metal/rad) I actually used duct tape. I used ally (easy to cut) between the top hat sections above the chassis rails - just pop riveted

My rad cradle is in "show us yer rads" - might help you with your planning. If I were to do it again I might be tempted to have the rad low point at the back & high at the front.
Yup, I lost clearance (std height van) but there's still more clearance than a normal car.
Make your scoop as wide as your chassis rails.

FYI - you can get 38mm Pirtek hose over the torsion tubes and under the top hat section on the floor without resorting to cutting metal.

The flexi stuff is good but bear in mind it creates 2 additional joints per run. I used two bits.

Plastic is cheap Wink You aren't gonna see it either, or you could rattle can it. I couldn't find any guff on safe working pressures/temps for plastic (assuming heating stuff)
Metal will give you better cooling though (mine's 60% thick walled Pirtek, 20% Gates flexi 10% Samco for reducers)
I'm still sitting on the fence re Ally, steel, copper...
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72_bay_simon
Padawan
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Joined: 13 May 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Metal will give you better cooling though (mine's 60% thick walled Pirtek, 20% Gates flexi 10% Samco for reducers)

Dosent that leak a bit? You seem to have 10% missing Happy

Seriously, the 38mm Pirtek hose, how expensive is that? I estimate I will need about 7metres. Its got to be easier than running solid pipe?

My other plan is to use 28mm copper pipe (I have loads anyway) some samco 90degree reducers and some samco straight to join any sections I cant do in one go (and add a bit of flex to the system) My Rad is copper anyway so adding some copper pipe wont change things that much.

I plan to run the coolant lines below the suspension so I dont have any high points in it which should help bleeding.
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ElusiveStranger
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

72_bay_simon wrote:
Quote:
Metal will give you better cooling though (mine's 60% thick walled Pirtek, 20% Gates flexi 10% Samco for reducers)

Dosent that leak a bit? You seem to have 10% missing Happy

Ooops

Seriously, the 38mm Pirtek hose, how expensive is that? I estimate I will need about 7metres. Its got to be easier than running solid pipe?

Was around £18/m when I got it - damn sight cheaper than Samco. Ring them. It's not very flexi though. Cut with a hacksaw & a pair of wire cutters.
When you're working out volumes, it's approx 1 litre/metre at that diameter.
Much easier than running solid unless you have straight runs


My other plan is to use 28mm copper pipe (I have loads anyway) some samco 90degree reducers and some samco straight to join any sections I cant do in one go (and add a bit of flex to the system) My Rad is copper anyway so adding some copper pipe wont change things that much.

I plan to run the coolant lines below the suspension so I dont have any high points in it which should help bleeding.
I was striving to get them going uphill as best as I could. The return to the engine (EJ20) does have a high spot but it bleeds easily

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The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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Alex (FTS)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got some 38mm rubber pipe from hyphose and it was £10 a meter. Dutch hose also do the same pipe. I unfortunatly needed 10 meters so it got a bit costly. But it is very good hose
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72_bay_simon
Padawan
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Joined: 13 May 2006
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Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some good stuff there, thanks. I have started to draw up the radiator frame. I will make this up and attach it so I can make sure I have enough ground clearance before putting an expensive radiator in it!
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ElusiveStranger
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

XJ40 - IRO £25 on flea bay, auto (oil cooler built into 'side bits') or manual transmission.
45mm inlet 38mm outlet.
Samco do a 45 -> 38mm 90° reducer for approx £15.

I will take a photo of mine and post it soon!
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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72_bay_simon
Padawan
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 79
Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for that but my plan is to use the TSR radiator that is presently fitted in the back of my bus. This already has 2x16inch fans fitted and keeps things pretty cool despite being mounted in the back. I reckon mounted underneath with better air flow it should work a treat.
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ElusiveStranger
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if it works anything like mine your fans won't be on all the time on m/way cruising. Grin
Fingers crossed for ya.
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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