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Agata>automatic urabus

 
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 7:21 pm    Post subject: Agata>automatic urabus Reply with quote

Warning the story is in crappy google translate english. Please ask me anything. maybe in the future i will translate it correctly.

Hi all,

Wilfred pointed me this way to share my experience with subaru and automaitc.

I wrote my story on the dutch subaru forum

http://www.subaruforum.nl/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=890&sid=cb9c8df4c99c8a77678568723cc13201

I will try to put it here with google translate.

if you have any questions let me know!

copy > translate > paste

Quote:
Auto & model: t2b '78 7 seater with passage
Engine: 2.0L of a subaru legacy 1994 with 125,000 on the clock
Gearbox: automatic
Consumption: I do not know
Top speed: 120 no idea but should work
Cooling details: behind the engine valve
Brake adjustments: no
Other adjustments not related engine: heater added.

the following is perhaps incoherent this is because I have just gecopypaste directly from my bustopic.
Introduction

[spoiler] she comes from America and called Agata, named after the agata braun. It is a 7 seater automatic.

I give a new paint job and undersealed it to withstand the weather conditions in NL. Whether that will happen we will see ...

But the engine. There was a 2l injection who has driven in at least 100k miles. the engine went well until I found out that one valve was not set. with this valve seat was completely swept away. new head purchased but there was no time to revise things. also the dilemma I need it to be reliable. then i bought a vw engine for 800 euros.That runs fine but now I still have no engine I trust ....

So it started to itch .... a revision of one of the vw engine would be very costly and still it will be tricky for daily use

Slowly there was a discussion about Subaru engines on our forum including area51, mycha and obonobo also passed, and there was one bus pass that everything was built so that you had to make minimal changes and it could build back to original.

That appealed to me. I'm a little originality freak. Adjusting fine as it can be but neatly built back.





original brochure
[/spoiler]


purchase

[spoiler] I bought a legacy of 94 with few miles on the clock. the engine was leak free and the whole cost 650 euros. cheaper to find but I was happy.
[img] http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/2012-10-30154216.jpg [/img] [/spoiler]

demolish

[spoiler] So I went to buy yourself demolish route. it takes some extra time. especially disassemble the cable tree and pruning.

the engine first cleaned with engine cleaner. (soak and then trounce the pressure washer) and then spray dried with air.
in front of:
[img] http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/2012-06-26-20-02-07-121.jpg [/img]

after:


after the cable tree to be taken out has not been tested as the motor. this was a good time to continue the thread tree pruning and test the engine. unfortunately I have not done this then. later you have more variables why he can not do it.


and then back on to disassemble the engine and hoisted out.



a hoist or useful to have;) [/spoiler]
build
[spoiler] the engine is using this tile and drive plate attached to the tray and hung with the engine mount

[/spoiler]

day1 (half day worked) flywheel replaced
[spoiler]
clutch off


flywheel off little dirty but in concert I leave the Keering


clean (brake cleaner is my friend)


Subaru / vw automatic drive plate aqdapter dingus. right above you see that it just can through the mounting hole.


adapter plate on it. all fit nicely. was indeed surprised that there is another type of thread in it for the engine bolts. I wanted to hang out with him, namely the Subaru points in the engine buck but m10 did not fit. So now hangs on the vw points.


as that depends upon now. [/spoiler]

Day2 whole day worked distribution set replace

[spoiler] replaced distribution kit and water pump. and the small turn of tone to the throttle body to the other side to focus on.

it started not good. the set that I ordered had the wrong rollers of a newer type EJ20. so called and yes their system gave the wrong therefore to the new set of rollers ordered there were quite good. But luckily I had forgotten how the belt was taken into account and did not return the other set for that belt was true, in short that sets no ball knocked from there.

the rest went smoothly.
photos:


old set with old pump


everything put in place the right timing, and finally you marked with some white paint. looks just a bit finer and if you can pull off the belt just a tooth jump and tension is also convenient.



new set


gaskets replicate for throttle body


and mounted

the rest are still played with the outlet and see what fits and continue playing with the supplier on the distribution set.

all in all quite satisfied. block transfer is complete.

now the outlet motorsteuin radiator and finally the wire tree .... [/spoiler]

day3 again half a day working out vw engine

[spoiler] so today tinker half a day. was this morning still doubt whether I should or should not get the engine went out today and I first went to prepare more.

finally decided to take him out with bucket and al. under the motto. I must also finish it;)

1.5 hours later, everything was weasel. much easier than just pull the block out. but what more crude to balance out. but I do it with a stacker and that works fine.

photo, s:


original 2 liter injection block. was still fine and so is the sales.


old and new side by side.


the automaatbak


and so I left it behind ... almost touchdown. [/spoiler]

day 4 heledag worked to block bin and it

[spoiler] block linked to bin. the drive plate bolts I could pretty vanonderaf to rotate through the space that there is a standard.

and then there was that in it. Unfortunately no pictures to this stage.

therefore equal to the engine support


ds t3 support. as expected to be broad.




exhaust hang trial


end cat close to the ball filler pipe

[img] http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/2012-10-02150859.jpg [/img]
support customized (bars removed) and made bare chassis for mounting plates


plates fixed tapped in the right place on the support. this is later cut by


Balkes the support which will become the suspension bolts go through


plates welded

and so I left it





[/spoiler]

Day 5 1.5 days worked all give a spot
[spoiler] basically everything is on the bottom or on his place now.

photos:


... the exhaust manifold with the original cat. corresponds exactly to the oil filler tube of the dispenser tray out. that's not really handy so he needs aside.


So the saw therein. first one manifold off and shortening and then the other to bend and extend


fitting and measuring


frying and the manifold is ready.





mount the radiator.

At the upper side with a corner profile containing original subaru brackets. with the studs, I can adjust things if I possibly another radiator in it place.

I bent under a thick steel strip in which the radiator is hanging in his original rubbers, it is suspended from the towing hook brackets.


last I have the outlet between the cat and the silencer. but that picture failed so then but an interim picture.
to the muffler hanging everything on the tray / engine.


oh yeah if we're at it, I overhauled this guy. [/spoiler]

6 half-day working day little things
[spoiler] first started to handle all the new iron. thus supporting radiator and exhaust. engine support bracket yet.



then the bus from the lift had to tire out and bags but. that was an exciting moment how low is that ...



exhaust hangs at 17 cm the crankcase 18.
if it is too low then the outlets aside more and higher along the engine mount can be laid and shortened the crankcase.

Further, the rest of the time have been tinkering with the accelerator rod / cable. because I have a kickdown should I use the original rod and as the gas control on the other side va carb is that just mess around. I now have a structure that works tomorrow the pictures.

So I had from right to left with the gas operation.

This has been achieved with Subaru parts.


in the throttle linkage was an adjustment bolt, turn it off and I put a new bolt, and then the end of the Subaru accelerator. So that I had the right mount for Subaru gas cable. The cable is held by a piece can of which those in the subaru also was stuck in.



The cable comes with a curve to the left

[img]http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/2012-10-09103659.jpg [/img]
And that is put firmly back with the Subaru imagine bracket.

Here is a picture of the exhaust path.


The rest of the day little things done without. .
And another piece of rust from my eye allow drilling at the doctor [/spoiler]


7 day stretch
[spoiler] continues the slow what I think. but yes last mile is the longest. they are not really things that you see.
yesterday afternoon

support after finishing hung back, the exhaust in place except the damper that I do in the end when everything is in place.

Today gas connections made on the vw injection pump. looped through the heating terminal.
crankcase breather and the like connected.

tried to wire the tree with all excess wires lay it to run test but that was not what I've been cut so there tonight. about that later another question ..

the lower front frame section and a rusted lakje paint over it.

placed the starter, now I wonder whether I should have done this earlier. because normally there is a bolt on the starter side is clamped in the fixed, now there is a bolt from the adjustment plate and then press the starter. but it can not tighten you because he gets clamped. I solved it by what road to grind but whether this is now the way?

CV joints connected.


so if you write it so it seems still quite a lot;)

to do

Connecting radiator
end silencer
harness (hang cabinets relaits etc)
confirm air filter

nice cut:


oops too much. I thought the free plug particles were turned suddenly to sit in resistors or something ... are they important? help
[/spoiler]

day eight harness connected and ...
[spoiler][img]http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/video-2012-10-15-14-23-52.mp4[/img]


sfeerfoto
[/spoiler]
day 9 half day's drive but
[spoiler] so the throttle cable connected hanged exhaust and off you go.

there is now a small dempertje below. this sounds for me a bit too sporty. but for now it's fine. the camera sounds much rawer than in real life.

photographs and movies:


hanging of the outlet for the ark


suspension damper. this damper does still too few or so, an intermediate damper for the bucket or a larger rear silencer.


http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/?action=view&current=video-2012-10-16-15-38-32.mp4

movie of headroom and sound.



http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fahtal/?action=view&current=video-2012-10-16-16-20-18.mp4

action movie.


I expected that I would not at low speeds as brands because the 2 liter also nice tried. but that is nie so. it goes like a rocket. along with this machine is really super ride !.

ok a little noisy for a family car. but that's going to happen.

Now the harness still neat and tidy then just use and see what adjustments are still to come. [/spoiler]

10 day clean up and move

[spoiler] after some setback from a leaking gearbox Keering finalized the rest:
the harness has been shortened and thinned out. the computer is in the spare wheel. high and dry.

the heater underneath and works.

only the temperature gauge is not connected yet but that will come this week.

pictures.


fuse box and the right relaits




and the computer in the spare wheel. there happens to still have the original cover.

now you see nothing of the case. except the water temperature gauge on the spot where you normally have a bell as an option.
and you can see it at the outlet. and that the engine cover is open. [/spoiler]

summary:

subaru conversion:

supplies:
-motorblok harness with 650 for the car
-Customized original exhaust with alternative dempertje I had positioned but the demolition is enough for little
-motorsteun 100
-better fan 100
-bochtje to turn the throttle body so that nit is in your firewall. 30
-tpasplaat and drive plate 360
-distributieset 300

a total of approximately 1500 Euros
then you have a reliable unit with 120 hp and it shows on the entire range.

what I had done differently?

not very much, but the time and cost is in the wiring harness and distribution before I could buy a block with custom wire tree Jan Seegers. so this is worth considering.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great project, and great starting post!

When is the other van getting a real engine? :-)
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wich one?
The green westy or the yellow doka?

I just bought an forester so the legacy is waiting te be cut up in pieces!;-)
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
fahtal, thats a great job there, mines an auto as well so its great to see another one done. Did you use a 010 gearbox and do you think it would be better with a larger final drive or any change to the gearing?




i`m not sure. but i think i have an 010 gearbox. the bay window automatic started with an 003 till 1975 i think. and then went for the 010 gearbox.

I didn`t change the final gear. i saw that some vanagon riders did that. maybe in the future but i think is allot of money.

i had some problems with my subaru+vw automatic. I broke 4 torque converters. because
1 there was to little space between engine and gearbox
2 the adapter plate did not aligne the engine and gearbos. it was a bit of centre. a normal clutch wil do but an automatic wil brake
3 the "flex"plate did not allign dead centre. the alignement hole was bigger then the crankshaft notch
4 the "flex"plate wasn`t to flexible... so fibrations killed the fourth torque converter.....

now i`m driving with an original vw flexplate with an cutom made core to fit the subaru crankshaft

Pictures
some say old vw mark their spot. mine bleeds ones a month...



looks ok...


but...oops


so here goes number 3Wink


here you can see the broken"tube"of the torque converter. next to it the new"tube"


and welded in place


after this weld my vw started to bleed again. but this time the tube didn`t brake but the bronze bushing was ruined... so the welded "tube" is a great modification.

alligning


vw vs adapted

subaru:
[img]http://api.hollandersolutions.com/Assets/Y/OAKLEAFWI/Part/23407/Image/1[/img]

making the core




[/img]

Quote:
Would you have done anything different in the build?


uhm not sure. the cooling could be better but i like the compact system without allot of piping underneath my bus..

i put an extra radiator and this seems to help but i still need the fans.



on your question to put in a different final gear. look at these results

if i compare my vw 2.0 cj engine on a automatic and my 2.0 subaru on an automatic the power is the same becuase the torque converter is the bottleneck. so what will the effect be if you put in a larger gear? i don`t know.

red is subaru black is vw

what i do know is if you want to drive faster then 120km/h. you must adjust your steering, brakes and grip. because my standard bus is all over the place at that speed.[/i]
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

small update.

last year i had some starting problems. at first vw the ignition switch gave problems. I temporarily by passed it by a starter button. but that didn`t work very well.. so changed teh switch but that broke again. so back to the starter switch. But the starting was quite crappy when cold. I couldn`t find out what was wrong.

but after reading here on the forum about this ( http://rjes.com/html/troubleshooting.html#TS1) wire it all came back again. probably some were in the loom the original wire is broken. i think i made a fuse in it and tugged it away real good in the engine bay.... now a made a new connection to the ecu and the starter and my bus starts great again.

when i have time i will look up the original wire but it works for now.

btw this is my starter button. an old MIG17 bombs away trigger;)

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pgtips
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

love the starter switch.

had a few other things to fix but my build starts in a couple of weeks. Is your bus still driving ok ?

PG
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the swicth is subzero cool;)


but agata stil drives like a charm.

the cooling could be better with the heat of last week the fans were working overtime....

a few days before the fuse of the fans burnt and i noticed it until my temp gauge pointed to 130 degrees Celsius....

Eeeek

but no leakage. so everything is waterproof;)


But the last update(the flex plate) is stil working fine
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

go underside rad :-) !!

I went to the RDW (motoring authority) on juli 1st. It was 5 o clock, over 30 degrees celcius and heavy traffic (julianaplein Groningen).

no problem, fans not even coming on :-)

I know you dont want to go underside rad, but I pretend like I don't Laugh Out Loud
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know i know.

maybe if the time is there i will change my setup. for now this works and the cooling wasn`t my worst problem. that was the breaking of the torque convertes.

and as you know i have 2 other buses that scream for attention;)
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

at least you tried alternative cooling, I think I will go underside rads and scoop with mine, I know RJES does sell a ready made setup.

Will keep in touch :-)
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