Fault code light wiring?

[flowervanman]

Howdy, I've got a 94 ( I think!) ej22 in a Brazilian Bay.
It was done by that company who famously cut out all the electrical connections that may be usefull!

It used to be a lumpy, popping, stalling lump of scrap but since fitting a VSS (RJES service fantastic) and plumbing in a home brew bodge of a pcv system ( it had an air filter stuck on the breather?) I have discovered a new love for it and would like to finish it off properly.

All the wires for the engine check light have been hacked off the ecu. I cant find an actual light either so I'm guessing thats also in TSR's bin.
What I need to know is:

which wires to solder back on?

what kind of bulb I would need?

do I need specific connectors?

and what to connect to what to make the bulb flash?

This is the chart I've been working from and everything else seems to work so I'm presuming Its correct.

Cheers
Rob

[Kai]

I can't really comment on said company as I have no experience with them, but they do get a bad rep, especially for cutting things off.

However I can sympathise, the engine check light is up as part of the dash and is easy to cut away. But your fortunate as its pretty easy to reinstall.


B109, pin 22 ( malfunction indicator lamp)

Take a bulb, any bulb, I'm using the handbrake warning light on my 924 gauges, could of used the fuel reserve light but I prefer the big red exclamation mark, Ricola told me he uses the cigarette lighter illumination bulb...... Well cool

One side of the bulb should be a fused +12V supply, then the negative side you want to connect to B109 pin 22. Job done


That's how the ecu indicates a fault to read the fault you must connect the read memory connectors. The test mode is usefull too.


B110 pins 12/13, these should be a green and black connector, you should have similar plugs for these to connect into with in your loom.


B110 pin 3 ( neutral position switch) this is earthed right?


B110 pin 10 ( starter switch) this is connected to your starter motor right?



B108 Pin 1 ( back up power supply) this is connected to a permanent live right?


B108 pins 2/13 ( control unit power supply) is switched live right?

B109 pins 16/17 got both these connected??
_________________
Think......

Don't sleep and drive!!!

[flowervanman]

Cheers Kai, very helpful! Everything else is correct except the fans are on a permanent switch on dash. ( an auto spark did it after an overheating drama, )they're on permanently but it runs great at a steady 95 degrees.
There are no green or black connectors anywhere on the loom and the corresponding holes on the ecu are empty! I'm guessing this makes it harder?

[Kai]

Owwww empty as in no wire or pin, or empty as in cut not much left??

Well, if there are no connections for the self diagnostic then you could try getting the select monitor to work, saw one on eBay a while ago, but the guy wanted £200. Im not that familiar with the select monitor connections, but you can utilise them to work on a laptop with the right software.

Actually, I guess you could test the ecu pin to see if it's functional both B110 12&13 are showing +5V when the ignition is on according to your diagram. Also of the rest of your connections are correct, honestly I can't see why Subaru would leave those out.
_________________
Think......

Don't sleep and drive!!!

[flowervanman]

yeh b110 12 and 13 been hacked off, I soldered a longer bit of wire on while I was tidying the rest of the mess up but obviously I have no connectors and nowhere to connect them to.
I,ve unwrapped the loom and there is no sign of any connectors or even cut wires where they have been chopped off.

The idiot that did the conversion just cut all the wires at the ecu about 10 mil in length, loads of bare ends flapping about touching each other, cant have been helping much!!

Like I said it seems to be running the best it ever has in 5 years, It's almost, dare I say, reliable so hopefully I wont be needing them!

[Kai]

You don't need the specific subaru connectors. Anything will do, a switch, chocoblock, tape.... Anything that'll hold the read memory cable to an earth during the interrogation of the ecu. You should get the light work at least and have it somewhere visible..... Under the rear bench is not a suitable place.


If your struggling to get to the pins the ecu connectors can be opened up and even the pins extracted with a hair clip.

As the darth admin himself said " subarus motors you fit and forget"
_________________
Think......

Don't sleep and drive!!!

[flowervanman]

yipee.... I actually think I,ve got that now! Basically I just need to ground the wires when I want to read the codes..... I was thinking the connectors that are missing from the loom were connected to a dark and mystical place deep within.....but grounding them.....even I am capable of that!

Thanks again, I,ll report back after my wiring session.

[flowervanman]

THANKS KAI!! I've got that working now ........ top tip for anybody else, dont use a rear stop/tail bulb ( it was all I had lying around ) after watching the flashes for 20 minutes it was like looking at the sun

The only code it's flashing is 35 PCV. The pcv system was basically a mini air filter on the crank case and the pipe from the pcv into the other side of the crank case.

What I did was connect both crankcase breathers to the PCV with another pipe to the inlet manifold. I'll get a photo when I take the rad back off as I cant get in!

I have a blue connector that doesn't connect to anything that was stuffed under the PCV/IAC area but cant find where it should go. The only pcv related thing I've found is the valve that connects to the manifold ( The one that blows open one way and shut the other way)

I'll get a photo

Does a PCV error code affect the running at all?

Thanks again